Breaking News from the New York Times

“A word to the wise: The great Los Angeles housing boom is over. The real estate price explosion in southern California, which sparked a national boom still continuing elsewhere, has stopped. The bubble that everyone said could never burst has burst. All over Los Angeles and Orange County, home buyers can buy a property for less than it would have cost a year ago, although there are exceptions. Buyers who can pay cash can almost steal houses and real estate. The days when ordinary citizens got rich from buying houses are gone, at least for the time being and at least in southern California. But what a bubble it was. ”

Did I mention that this article was originally published August 17, 1981. That’s more than a quarter century ago! Bet you wish you bought then!

More snippits from the article:

“The boom went on for such a long time because the economics were right. . . .Figure it out: mortgages were less than 10 percent for almost all of that decade, under 7 percent if you count the tax features, and houses were increasing in value all over the West Side of Los Angeles by a good 20 percent a year on a compounded basis. The banks, savings and loan institutions and and the economy generally were paying families to live in the better neighborhoods of Los Angeles. . . .This cheap credit fueled the takeoff of the boom. As prices rose to stratospheric levels, the price history itself fed the boom. . . .Even when mortgage interest rates shot up to 13 and 14 percent, the houses were still going up 20 percent a year, so who cared?”

Then the crisis came. The Fed took on inflation and interest rates hit 18%.

“Buyers became fewer and more choosy. Houses that once sold in a week stood unsold for a year. As demand fell, prices stopped rising, then began to fall. . . .Suddenly buyers decide to stay with their old houses and their rentals. Demand declines and prices slide a little more. Families who thought they were rich from their houses find that they simply cannot sell except at an immense discount. And the air goes out of the bubble. . . .”

“Of course, Los Angeles is still a desirable place to live, the economy is still relatively strong and no one seriously contemplates a major crash. And, of course, all bubbles, in every commodity, always end some time.”

So, it’s a buyers market again. What are you going to do about it?

Benjamin J. Stein’s entire article, “Housing Boom Goes Bust in Los Angeles,” was recently republished by the New York Times. It’s good to have perspective.

If a creek is eroding your property, what you do to stabilize the banks can have significant unintended consequenses to your property and others downstream.

Some typical guidelines for bank stabilization approaches include:

• Do not reduce the width of the creek, as this will almost certainly cause erosion both in the bed and downstream.
• Do not reduce the length of the creek (by straightening a bend for example). This action will steepen the bed profile, increasing erosion locally, and on the next bend downstream.
• Where possible, combine grading activities to flatten bank angle and use a mixture of biotechnical methods such as brush mats and willow planting.
• Where rock is required, place rock (mechanically or by hand) rather than by dumping. Dumped rock generally forms an unsustainably steep angle, which eventually collapses and rolls rock into the creek.
• Limit the upper vertical extent of placed rock for structural and erosion protection requirements on the bank slope to maximize plantable areas. Key rock into the bed several feet to prevent undercutting.
• Utilize rock sizes based on calculations of flow force and resistance.
• Integrate native trees such as willow and alder with the engineered rock bank protection.
• Integrate native trees such as willow and alder with the engineered rock bank protection. Integrated planting has several benefits:
  • Roots anchor the soil beneath the rock, providing a living support system that increases the strength of the bank protection over time
  • Vegetation slows water velocities, reducing erosion both at the bank and downstream, and
  • Trees provide shaded cover for the creek, improving habitat conditions.

These “conceptual restoration approaches” come directly from Portola Valley’s Citizens’ Guide to Creek-Side Property Protection. The guide was created as a tool for the Town and its residents to use in guiding design, permitting, and construction of bank stabilization and revegetation efforts along Corte Madera Creek.

I know that Palo Alto and Menlo Park are looking to this an other guides for stabilizing the banks of San Francisquito Creek. It will not surprise me if other local like-minded towns (Woodside, Los Altos Hills, and Los Gatos, at least) move in this direction, too, if they can get it through the creeky legislative system. (Sorry, I had to work that in somewhere.)

When the weather gets nasty, its nice to know you can watch it through the windows from the comfortable confines of your home. But are you taking that heat for granted? Freezing rain, high winds and sleet storms can knock out power for hours or even days. Long periods of extreme cold can overtax heating systems, causing them to fail.

This post is a very long heat-loss prevention guide, so be forewarned. Headers are “Determine the Source of the Problem”; “Heat Outages”; “Troubleshooting Heating Problems”; “Emergency Generators”; “Fireplaces”; “Staying Warm in an Unheated Home”; and “Safeguard Against Frozen Pipes.”

Extended periods of heating loss can result in harsh living conditions, unwelcome moisture throughout the house and damage to floors, walls and plumbing. What will you do when the heat goes out?

Determine the Source of the Problem
When your heat cuts out, the first thing you’ll need to determine is the nature of the problem. In general, a home heating emergency will be caused by one of three overall issues: failure of your home’s heating system, local (limited) power failure within your own home or wider-spread regional power outages. Knowing which of the three you’re up against is the key to moving forward.

Power Outages
Most homes rely on electrical power in some capacity to provide heat. Even homes that employ oil or natural gas utilize electrical ignition systems, circulation fans and pumps, and so on. While you will probably know of a power outage as soon as or shortly after it happens, the outage may be limited to your home. Check with several of your neighbors: if their power is still on, you’re likely facing limited power failure within your home.

Check your circuit breaker for flipped breakers and your fuse box for blown fuses. It’s usually a good idea to have a supply of spare fuses on hand at all times. If the issue is not a breaker or fuse, carefully check the service wires leading to the house (if above-ground). Stay clear of any damaged or downed lines and notify your electric company. If power is out for your neighbors as well, a regional power outage is likely to blame. Always report the outage to your power company rather than assume that they’re aware of the issue in your area.

• Turn off all appliances and electronic equipments to reduce load on the system (power can be restored more easily) and to prevent potential damage from surges associated with power restoration.
• Open your freezer and fridge only if absolutely necessary. A full freezer should keep foods frozen for at least 24 hours if the door remains closed.
• Do not use gas, charcoal or kerosene stoves (or barbeques) indoors for heat, as they emit deadly carbon monoxide fumes.
• Never leave lit candles unattended. All candles should be used with proper candleholders.

Troubleshooting Heating Systems
A heavy winter workload can cause failure in your home’s heating system, particularly if it is older or has not received regular maintenance. A trained technician may be needed to resolve many issues with heating and cooling systems, but in the winter these specialists are in high demand. Before you call (and possibly, wait for) a technician, there are a few basic troubleshooting steps you can take to try to get your heating system back online. As always, you should consult your owner’s manuals for further details and leave advanced repairs to the professionals.

1. Gas Furnace

• Double-check the circuit breaker or fuses for the furnace system, resetting the breaker if it has been switched off.
• Power down the furnace unit (the power switch is typically located next to or inside the furnace cabinet). Turn the power back to ON and wait several minutes for the furnace to engage.
• The motor for the blower may need to be reset due to an overload. Look for a “reset” button close to the blower motor. Press “Reset”. If there is no response, wait approximately 30 minutes to allow the motor to cool prior to trying the button again.

Look to see if the pilot light is on. If it is not, try the following:

• Open the panel and turn the control knob to pilot.
• With a flashlight, locate the pilot fixture and light it with a match.
• Set the control to “on”.
• Set the thermostat to high to see if they system is operational. It may be necessary to repeat this process several times. Turn the control off and start over.

2. Forced Air Heating System

• Double-check the breaker for the heating system, resetting the breaker if it has been switched off.
• Turn off power to the unit.
• Check all ventilation areas to make sure they are not covered by furniture or blocked in any other way.
• Check for noticeable air leaks in ducts around the unit. Seal any leaks with several wraps of duct tape.
• Look for the door or panel that covers the blower. This may be marked “filter”. Remove the door/panel.
• Check the air filters and clean the grill. The filter should be marked with a size (if disposable) or cleaning instructions (if permanent). Most newer metal filters can be rinsed with warm water to clean, but check the manufacturer’s recommendation or owner’s manual to be sure.
• If replacing a disposable filter, make sure to slide it in facing the proper direction.
• While the furnace is still open, vacuum out the area around the blower.

3. Steam Heating System

• Turn off power to the unit.
• Check the water level in the boiler. If the level is low, slowly add water.
• If the water level appears low shortly after re-filling, call a technician to check for potential leaks.

Emergency Generators
Home generators can be useful in the event of a power outage, but they do present safety hazards if operated incorrectly.

• Never plug a home generator into an existing electrical circuit.
• Check the power requirements for your furnace and core appliances before considering the use of an emergency generator.
• All lights and appliances should be connected directly to the generator.
• Generators should be operated outdoors well away from all windows, doors and air vents to prevent harmful gases from entering the home.
• Always follow all manufacturers’ instructions for installation and use.

Fireplaces
If you have a wood/pellet-burning fireplace or stove, keep a supply of fuel on hand sufficient enough to heat your home for at least two days. Make sure the flue is fully open prior to lighting any fire. When not in use, make sure the flue is closed tightly to shut out cold outside air. If you have not had the chimney cleaned within the past year, using the fireplace is not recommended. Creosote buildup in chimneys can develop into destructive chimney fires if not controlled by annual cleanings.

Staying Warm in an Unheated Home
As temperatures dip, conserving body heat becomes more and more critical. Here are some strategies for maintaining warmth in the event that you must wait for heat or power to be restored.

• Outfit yourself in heavy clothing, particularly bulky outerwear. If possible wear several layers on your hands and feet. Always wear a warm hat, as an uncovered head results in greater body heat loss.
• Select a “Warm Zone” for the house. Ideally, this would be a room that is away from prevailing winds, has good insulation, does not have many windows and is isolated from other unheated areas. Rooms with a fireplace or other sources of heat are also ideal candidates.
• Use towels or blankets to stop drafts from cooling the selected room.
• Utilize blankets, sleeping bags, large towels, rugs and other materials to create a pocket in the “Warm Zone” that can better trap body warmth. Huddling close together is a good way to pool body heat.
• Close all drapes and window coverings. If cold air can still be felt, consider covering windows with towels or extra blankets.
• Cover openings under doors with towels and/or blankets.

Safeguard Against Frozen Pipes
One of the most significant threats to your home in winter is the possibility of water frozen in the plumbing system. When water freezes it expands up to four percent, enough to cause pipes to crack. This can easily lead to flooding and rampant water damage when heat is restored.

To prevent ice inside your pipes:

• Open cabinet doors under sinks to allow warmer air to flow around pipes.
• Hang a towel on the wall behind the sink.
• Wrap pipes in insulation, or layers of old newspapers wrapped in plastic.
• Turn the faucet at the lowest point in the house on to a slow, constant drip. This is especially important as outside temperatures dip into the 20s and below.
• Close off any rooms that don’t contain pipes to minimize heat loss.
• Turn off the water to outdoor faucets and drain the pipes.
• If outside temperatures are below freezing and you find a faucet with little or no water pressure, you may have an ice clog.

If you suspect an ice block in a particular faucet:

• Turn on the faucet nearest to the pipe with the suspected ice block.
• Follow the pipe to the location where it meets an outside wall.
• Locate the section of pipe exposed to cold air.
• If you still have power, use an electric hair dryer to melt the ice. Move it back and forth roughly one foot above where you suspect the ice clog.
• Contact a professional plumber to inspect pipes and assist with any needed repair.

If the heat loss in your home forces you to temporarily evacuate, take the following precautions to prevent ice within pipes while you are away:

• Turn off the primary water main where it enters the house. Protect the valve, inlet pipe and mete or pump with blankets or insulation material.
• Drain the water from your plumbing system. Start at the top of the house and work your way down, opening all taps and flushing toilets as you move. To drain your hot water tank, attach a hose to the tank drain/outlet valve and run this to the nearest basement floor drain. –
  Note that with gas-fired water tanks, the pilot light should be extinguished prior to draining.
• Un-hook the hoses on your washing machine and drain.
• Add a small amount of anti-freeze to water left in the toilet bowl and to sink and bathtub drains.

Thanks to David Green with RE/MAX of The Wildwoods in Wildwood Crest, NJ, (609) 523-9494 ext.31, for sending this content through the EcoBroker network. I’m certainly not an expert in these areas and learned a lot from the info he provided.

Lots of resolutions have been made. I’m sure many have been broken already. Me? I’m starting the New Year with a clean desk.

How can clutter not be a green issue? As part of our home or work environment, it affects our mental, physical, emotional and even spiritual health.

Some people are able to keep a home so neat that it looks staged. On the other side, I’ve seen some of the worst types of clutter in homes. Hallways that are stacked with papers and who-knows-what leaving a path like a narrow rural road that barely allows one car at a time. Shelves overflowing, beds with almost enough space to sleep in, insects living in molding piles of newspapers — it’s hard to imaging how bad it can get.

Some experts consider compulsive hoarding to be a mental illness in its own right, although its not yet formally recognized by psychiatrists. Where it effects quality of life, the National Study Group on Chronic Disorganization may be of help.

For the rest of us, it’s still a behavioral issue. And systems help. Our California Closets system was very helpful for our family in organizing our clothes. When we have a new overflow problem we know it’s time to donate. Real Simple has regular monthly features with organizing products and cleaning ideas. Just don’t print or cut out the articles and start a new stack of to-dos.

And if you need help, get it. Professional Organizers and Feng Shui consultants thrive on our capacity to collect and our need to reduce clutter. Clutterboy in Los Altos, CA, has some fun “clutter conquest” stories if you need inspiration.

For me, having items in their place means I can find the documents I need when I need them. Being able to find my gym bag or running shoes leaves me fewer reasons to avoid exercise.

My next decluttering project is the garage.