While venture capitalists are pouring money into Silicon Valley green-tech companies, cities in other states are making bold moves to build green communities.

On May 4, 2007, a class EF5 tornado, nearly two miles wide, destroyed 95% of Greensburg, KS. Left with a blank slate and true the the nature of their self-sufficient image, the community made a committment to rebuild as a model 21st century “green” rural American town.

According to ABCNews.go.com, “Since just a few days after the tornado, the small farming town has made ambitious plans for rebuilding green, from a wind farm at the electric plant to green homes and businesses.” The plan calls for mixing urban amenities with a rural setting.

All city-owned buildings will be built to meet LEED Platinum standards and homeowners are being given big incentives to rebuild green. I hope that they will be utilizing tornado-resistent technologies, as well.

The non-profit group created to support Greensburg’s Green intitiative has launched a One Million $5 Donations Campaign to show that a million small things make for big change. You, too, can donate to help them out.

Besides you, the government, and insurance companies, others have come in to help.

In a prime example of integrative learning, architecture students at Kansas State University have designed eco-friendly and weather resistant cubes that help make the city sustainable.  These 10′x10′x10′ modular structures have different educational and functional aspects, like public showers and toilets using recycled rain water and recycling bins with an interactive learning system. KU students are also designing a fine arts center.

Maxon, a District Energy and Green Power developer, is developing the “Energy Master Plan” for the City Of Greensburg in close cooperation with the National Renewable Energy Laboratory and the EPA.

Thanks to Maxon Energy for the photo used above. Before and after satellite photos are also enlightening.

Compared to Greensburg’s committments, Santa Clara County’s change-out-your-lightbulbs campaign seems a bit feeble (although each person should be doing this, and other small steps, too!).

So, you want to refinish the floors or that dresser (with potential!) you found at a garage sale. Forget the noxious odors and health risks associated with paint strippers.

aMAIZEing^TM Biobased Solvent & Stripper is a 100% bio-based solvent and stripper, derived from corn and soybeans. It and similar products made by SoyClean and  Molecular Tech Coatings Inc.’s EFS-2500 removes adhesives, paint from concrete, masonry, wood, metal and other surfaces.

aMAIZEing can also be used to remove graffiti from concrete if your place gets tagged on a regular basis. Or it could be time to move.

If a creek is eroding your property, what you do to stabilize the banks can have significant unintended consequenses to your property and others downstream.

Some typical guidelines for bank stabilization approaches include:

• Do not reduce the width of the creek, as this will almost certainly cause erosion both in the bed and downstream.
• Do not reduce the length of the creek (by straightening a bend for example). This action will steepen the bed profile, increasing erosion locally, and on the next bend downstream.
• Where possible, combine grading activities to flatten bank angle and use a mixture of biotechnical methods such as brush mats and willow planting.
• Where rock is required, place rock (mechanically or by hand) rather than by dumping. Dumped rock generally forms an unsustainably steep angle, which eventually collapses and rolls rock into the creek.
• Limit the upper vertical extent of placed rock for structural and erosion protection requirements on the bank slope to maximize plantable areas. Key rock into the bed several feet to prevent undercutting.
• Utilize rock sizes based on calculations of flow force and resistance.
• Integrate native trees such as willow and alder with the engineered rock bank protection.
• Integrate native trees such as willow and alder with the engineered rock bank protection. Integrated planting has several benefits:
  • Roots anchor the soil beneath the rock, providing a living support system that increases the strength of the bank protection over time
  • Vegetation slows water velocities, reducing erosion both at the bank and downstream, and
  • Trees provide shaded cover for the creek, improving habitat conditions.

These “conceptual restoration approaches” come directly from Portola Valley’s Citizens’ Guide to Creek-Side Property Protection. The guide was created as a tool for the Town and its residents to use in guiding design, permitting, and construction of bank stabilization and revegetation efforts along Corte Madera Creek.

I know that Palo Alto and Menlo Park are looking to this an other guides for stabilizing the banks of San Francisquito Creek. It will not surprise me if other local like-minded towns (Woodside, Los Altos Hills, and Los Gatos, at least) move in this direction, too, if they can get it through the creeky legislative system. (Sorry, I had to work that in somewhere.)

When the weather gets nasty, its nice to know you can watch it through the windows from the comfortable confines of your home. But are you taking that heat for granted? Freezing rain, high winds and sleet storms can knock out power for hours or even days. Long periods of extreme cold can overtax heating systems, causing them to fail.

This post is a very long heat-loss prevention guide, so be forewarned. Headers are “Determine the Source of the Problem”; “Heat Outages”; “Troubleshooting Heating Problems”; “Emergency Generators”; “Fireplaces”; “Staying Warm in an Unheated Home”; and “Safeguard Against Frozen Pipes.”

Extended periods of heating loss can result in harsh living conditions, unwelcome moisture throughout the house and damage to floors, walls and plumbing. What will you do when the heat goes out?

Determine the Source of the Problem
When your heat cuts out, the first thing you’ll need to determine is the nature of the problem. In general, a home heating emergency will be caused by one of three overall issues: failure of your home’s heating system, local (limited) power failure within your own home or wider-spread regional power outages. Knowing which of the three you’re up against is the key to moving forward.

Power Outages
Most homes rely on electrical power in some capacity to provide heat. Even homes that employ oil or natural gas utilize electrical ignition systems, circulation fans and pumps, and so on. While you will probably know of a power outage as soon as or shortly after it happens, the outage may be limited to your home. Check with several of your neighbors: if their power is still on, you’re likely facing limited power failure within your home.

Check your circuit breaker for flipped breakers and your fuse box for blown fuses. It’s usually a good idea to have a supply of spare fuses on hand at all times. If the issue is not a breaker or fuse, carefully check the service wires leading to the house (if above-ground). Stay clear of any damaged or downed lines and notify your electric company. If power is out for your neighbors as well, a regional power outage is likely to blame. Always report the outage to your power company rather than assume that they’re aware of the issue in your area.

• Turn off all appliances and electronic equipments to reduce load on the system (power can be restored more easily) and to prevent potential damage from surges associated with power restoration.
• Open your freezer and fridge only if absolutely necessary. A full freezer should keep foods frozen for at least 24 hours if the door remains closed.
• Do not use gas, charcoal or kerosene stoves (or barbeques) indoors for heat, as they emit deadly carbon monoxide fumes.
• Never leave lit candles unattended. All candles should be used with proper candleholders.

Troubleshooting Heating Systems
A heavy winter workload can cause failure in your home’s heating system, particularly if it is older or has not received regular maintenance. A trained technician may be needed to resolve many issues with heating and cooling systems, but in the winter these specialists are in high demand. Before you call (and possibly, wait for) a technician, there are a few basic troubleshooting steps you can take to try to get your heating system back online. As always, you should consult your owner’s manuals for further details and leave advanced repairs to the professionals.

1. Gas Furnace

• Double-check the circuit breaker or fuses for the furnace system, resetting the breaker if it has been switched off.
• Power down the furnace unit (the power switch is typically located next to or inside the furnace cabinet). Turn the power back to ON and wait several minutes for the furnace to engage.
• The motor for the blower may need to be reset due to an overload. Look for a “reset” button close to the blower motor. Press “Reset”. If there is no response, wait approximately 30 minutes to allow the motor to cool prior to trying the button again.

Look to see if the pilot light is on. If it is not, try the following:

• Open the panel and turn the control knob to pilot.
• With a flashlight, locate the pilot fixture and light it with a match.
• Set the control to “on”.
• Set the thermostat to high to see if they system is operational. It may be necessary to repeat this process several times. Turn the control off and start over.

2. Forced Air Heating System

• Double-check the breaker for the heating system, resetting the breaker if it has been switched off.
• Turn off power to the unit.
• Check all ventilation areas to make sure they are not covered by furniture or blocked in any other way.
• Check for noticeable air leaks in ducts around the unit. Seal any leaks with several wraps of duct tape.
• Look for the door or panel that covers the blower. This may be marked “filter”. Remove the door/panel.
• Check the air filters and clean the grill. The filter should be marked with a size (if disposable) or cleaning instructions (if permanent). Most newer metal filters can be rinsed with warm water to clean, but check the manufacturer’s recommendation or owner’s manual to be sure.
• If replacing a disposable filter, make sure to slide it in facing the proper direction.
• While the furnace is still open, vacuum out the area around the blower.

3. Steam Heating System

• Turn off power to the unit.
• Check the water level in the boiler. If the level is low, slowly add water.
• If the water level appears low shortly after re-filling, call a technician to check for potential leaks.

Emergency Generators
Home generators can be useful in the event of a power outage, but they do present safety hazards if operated incorrectly.

• Never plug a home generator into an existing electrical circuit.
• Check the power requirements for your furnace and core appliances before considering the use of an emergency generator.
• All lights and appliances should be connected directly to the generator.
• Generators should be operated outdoors well away from all windows, doors and air vents to prevent harmful gases from entering the home.
• Always follow all manufacturers’ instructions for installation and use.

Fireplaces
If you have a wood/pellet-burning fireplace or stove, keep a supply of fuel on hand sufficient enough to heat your home for at least two days. Make sure the flue is fully open prior to lighting any fire. When not in use, make sure the flue is closed tightly to shut out cold outside air. If you have not had the chimney cleaned within the past year, using the fireplace is not recommended. Creosote buildup in chimneys can develop into destructive chimney fires if not controlled by annual cleanings.

Staying Warm in an Unheated Home
As temperatures dip, conserving body heat becomes more and more critical. Here are some strategies for maintaining warmth in the event that you must wait for heat or power to be restored.

• Outfit yourself in heavy clothing, particularly bulky outerwear. If possible wear several layers on your hands and feet. Always wear a warm hat, as an uncovered head results in greater body heat loss.
• Select a “Warm Zone” for the house. Ideally, this would be a room that is away from prevailing winds, has good insulation, does not have many windows and is isolated from other unheated areas. Rooms with a fireplace or other sources of heat are also ideal candidates.
• Use towels or blankets to stop drafts from cooling the selected room.
• Utilize blankets, sleeping bags, large towels, rugs and other materials to create a pocket in the “Warm Zone” that can better trap body warmth. Huddling close together is a good way to pool body heat.
• Close all drapes and window coverings. If cold air can still be felt, consider covering windows with towels or extra blankets.
• Cover openings under doors with towels and/or blankets.

Safeguard Against Frozen Pipes
One of the most significant threats to your home in winter is the possibility of water frozen in the plumbing system. When water freezes it expands up to four percent, enough to cause pipes to crack. This can easily lead to flooding and rampant water damage when heat is restored.

To prevent ice inside your pipes:

• Open cabinet doors under sinks to allow warmer air to flow around pipes.
• Hang a towel on the wall behind the sink.
• Wrap pipes in insulation, or layers of old newspapers wrapped in plastic.
• Turn the faucet at the lowest point in the house on to a slow, constant drip. This is especially important as outside temperatures dip into the 20s and below.
• Close off any rooms that don’t contain pipes to minimize heat loss.
• Turn off the water to outdoor faucets and drain the pipes.
• If outside temperatures are below freezing and you find a faucet with little or no water pressure, you may have an ice clog.

If you suspect an ice block in a particular faucet:

• Turn on the faucet nearest to the pipe with the suspected ice block.
• Follow the pipe to the location where it meets an outside wall.
• Locate the section of pipe exposed to cold air.
• If you still have power, use an electric hair dryer to melt the ice. Move it back and forth roughly one foot above where you suspect the ice clog.
• Contact a professional plumber to inspect pipes and assist with any needed repair.

If the heat loss in your home forces you to temporarily evacuate, take the following precautions to prevent ice within pipes while you are away:

• Turn off the primary water main where it enters the house. Protect the valve, inlet pipe and mete or pump with blankets or insulation material.
• Drain the water from your plumbing system. Start at the top of the house and work your way down, opening all taps and flushing toilets as you move. To drain your hot water tank, attach a hose to the tank drain/outlet valve and run this to the nearest basement floor drain. –
  Note that with gas-fired water tanks, the pilot light should be extinguished prior to draining.
• Un-hook the hoses on your washing machine and drain.
• Add a small amount of anti-freeze to water left in the toilet bowl and to sink and bathtub drains.

Thanks to David Green with RE/MAX of The Wildwoods in Wildwood Crest, NJ, (609) 523-9494 ext.31, for sending this content through the EcoBroker network. I’m certainly not an expert in these areas and learned a lot from the info he provided.