While venture capitalists are pouring money into Silicon Valley green-tech companies, cities in other states are making bold moves to build green communities.

On May 4, 2007, a class EF5 tornado, nearly two miles wide, destroyed 95% of Greensburg, KS. Left with a blank slate and true the the nature of their self-sufficient image, the community made a committment to rebuild as a model 21st century “green” rural American town.

According to ABCNews.go.com, “Since just a few days after the tornado, the small farming town has made ambitious plans for rebuilding green, from a wind farm at the electric plant to green homes and businesses.” The plan calls for mixing urban amenities with a rural setting.

All city-owned buildings will be built to meet LEED Platinum standards and homeowners are being given big incentives to rebuild green. I hope that they will be utilizing tornado-resistent technologies, as well.

The non-profit group created to support Greensburg’s Green intitiative has launched a One Million $5 Donations Campaign to show that a million small things make for big change. You, too, can donate to help them out.

Besides you, the government, and insurance companies, others have come in to help.

In a prime example of integrative learning, architecture students at Kansas State University have designed eco-friendly and weather resistant cubes that help make the city sustainable.  These 10′x10′x10′ modular structures have different educational and functional aspects, like public showers and toilets using recycled rain water and recycling bins with an interactive learning system. KU students are also designing a fine arts center.

Maxon, a District Energy and Green Power developer, is developing the “Energy Master Plan” for the City Of Greensburg in close cooperation with the National Renewable Energy Laboratory and the EPA.

Thanks to Maxon Energy for the photo used above. Before and after satellite photos are also enlightening.

Compared to Greensburg’s committments, Santa Clara County’s change-out-your-lightbulbs campaign seems a bit feeble (although each person should be doing this, and other small steps, too!).

So, you want to refinish the floors or that dresser (with potential!) you found at a garage sale. Forget the noxious odors and health risks associated with paint strippers.

aMAIZEing^TM Biobased Solvent & Stripper is a 100% bio-based solvent and stripper, derived from corn and soybeans. It and similar products made by SoyClean and  Molecular Tech Coatings Inc.’s EFS-2500 removes adhesives, paint from concrete, masonry, wood, metal and other surfaces.

aMAIZEing can also be used to remove graffiti from concrete if your place gets tagged on a regular basis. Or it could be time to move.

Home staging is the idea of decorating a home to make it more attractive to buyers. 

Not moving? Then use it to make your home more livable, attractive, and a healthier “nest” for you and your family!

The act of creating a powerful first impression can be done for a minimal investment. If you’re selling, you’ll can increase the perceived value of your home dramatically (which may result in a shorter selling time and a higher sales price). If you’re staying, you’ll create a more relaxing and comfortable atmosphere.

There are a few distinct differences between staging your home for life versus staging your home for a sale. Read on for a few tips, no matter what your situation is.

First impressions:
Whether you’re staging for your own life or staging for a sale, you only have one chance to make a first impression on visitors. Potential buyers may only be in your home for three or four minutes, so you want those first moments to be positive. Don’t forget simple yet significant improvements to your home’s exterior, like:

• Mow the lawn and trim dead branches (especially near windows and doors)
• Place some pots with colorful flowers on the porch
• Give the front door a fresh coat of paint.

Your home will now give visitors a warm welcome, whether they’re over for a personal visit or as a potential buyer.

Your stuff:
Staging for life – Staging your home is about decorating with your tastes, reflecting your individual style.
Staging for sale – When putting your house on the market, it’s important to consider the buyer. What does the average buyer need to see in order to fall in love with your home?

• Try to avoid leaving personal items in plain sight.
• Keep it clean and simple.
• Focus on highlighting the best features your home has to offer.

Less is more:
Staging for life – Ask your real estate agent or a professional stager the single greatest improvement you can do to make your home more livable. They’ll tell you to get rid of the clutter. Having a bit of organization and eliminating unnecessary “stuff” in your home, including piles of junk mail and old magazines, will help to create a more open environment.
Staging for sale – When putting your home on the market, you want it to look lived in, but you don’t want home buyers focusing on you collection of ceramic cows instead of noticing the custom cabinets you had installed. Most professionals also advise putting personal pictures away. This helps home buyers imagine your home as their home. Remember to clean out closets so they appear more spacious. Don’t forget to organize or clear out medicine cabinets, as potential buyers are likely to open those, too.

A room with a use:
Staging for life – You may have specific uses for various rooms in your home (using a spare bedroom as a craft room or office, or setting up the garage as a home gym). This is exactly how it should be. Don’t feel bound by the limitations of a room’s label.
Staging for sale – On the other hand, it’s pivotal to let home buyers see rooms as they were originally intended. Turn that playroom back into it’s original state. Perform an inexpensive and quick makeover for these rooms by hanging sheer curtains to let in daylight and replacing aging light fixtures and switches.

Freshen up:
Staging for life – We all have our routine cleaning schedules, but consider doing little extras for yourself. Touch up the paint in your lived-in rooms. Treat yourself to a few houseplants to liven up your living areas. A little can go a long way.
Staging for sale – Channel you inner cleaner and decorator. Steam-clean the carpets. Touch up the paint. Add emotional warmth with throw pillows, dramatic plants, and unscented candles.  For that “Architectural Digest” look, clear off the counters  in the kitchen and bathroom. An inexpensive way to add color is with a vase of vibrant flowers, neatly folded towels, or a bowl of fruit.

When the weather gets nasty, its nice to know you can watch it through the windows from the comfortable confines of your home. But are you taking that heat for granted? Freezing rain, high winds and sleet storms can knock out power for hours or even days. Long periods of extreme cold can overtax heating systems, causing them to fail.

This post is a very long heat-loss prevention guide, so be forewarned. Headers are “Determine the Source of the Problem”; “Heat Outages”; “Troubleshooting Heating Problems”; “Emergency Generators”; “Fireplaces”; “Staying Warm in an Unheated Home”; and “Safeguard Against Frozen Pipes.”

Extended periods of heating loss can result in harsh living conditions, unwelcome moisture throughout the house and damage to floors, walls and plumbing. What will you do when the heat goes out?

Determine the Source of the Problem
When your heat cuts out, the first thing you’ll need to determine is the nature of the problem. In general, a home heating emergency will be caused by one of three overall issues: failure of your home’s heating system, local (limited) power failure within your own home or wider-spread regional power outages. Knowing which of the three you’re up against is the key to moving forward.

Power Outages
Most homes rely on electrical power in some capacity to provide heat. Even homes that employ oil or natural gas utilize electrical ignition systems, circulation fans and pumps, and so on. While you will probably know of a power outage as soon as or shortly after it happens, the outage may be limited to your home. Check with several of your neighbors: if their power is still on, you’re likely facing limited power failure within your home.

Check your circuit breaker for flipped breakers and your fuse box for blown fuses. It’s usually a good idea to have a supply of spare fuses on hand at all times. If the issue is not a breaker or fuse, carefully check the service wires leading to the house (if above-ground). Stay clear of any damaged or downed lines and notify your electric company. If power is out for your neighbors as well, a regional power outage is likely to blame. Always report the outage to your power company rather than assume that they’re aware of the issue in your area.

• Turn off all appliances and electronic equipments to reduce load on the system (power can be restored more easily) and to prevent potential damage from surges associated with power restoration.
• Open your freezer and fridge only if absolutely necessary. A full freezer should keep foods frozen for at least 24 hours if the door remains closed.
• Do not use gas, charcoal or kerosene stoves (or barbeques) indoors for heat, as they emit deadly carbon monoxide fumes.
• Never leave lit candles unattended. All candles should be used with proper candleholders.

Troubleshooting Heating Systems
A heavy winter workload can cause failure in your home’s heating system, particularly if it is older or has not received regular maintenance. A trained technician may be needed to resolve many issues with heating and cooling systems, but in the winter these specialists are in high demand. Before you call (and possibly, wait for) a technician, there are a few basic troubleshooting steps you can take to try to get your heating system back online. As always, you should consult your owner’s manuals for further details and leave advanced repairs to the professionals.

1. Gas Furnace

• Double-check the circuit breaker or fuses for the furnace system, resetting the breaker if it has been switched off.
• Power down the furnace unit (the power switch is typically located next to or inside the furnace cabinet). Turn the power back to ON and wait several minutes for the furnace to engage.
• The motor for the blower may need to be reset due to an overload. Look for a “reset” button close to the blower motor. Press “Reset”. If there is no response, wait approximately 30 minutes to allow the motor to cool prior to trying the button again.

Look to see if the pilot light is on. If it is not, try the following:

• Open the panel and turn the control knob to pilot.
• With a flashlight, locate the pilot fixture and light it with a match.
• Set the control to “on”.
• Set the thermostat to high to see if they system is operational. It may be necessary to repeat this process several times. Turn the control off and start over.

2. Forced Air Heating System

• Double-check the breaker for the heating system, resetting the breaker if it has been switched off.
• Turn off power to the unit.
• Check all ventilation areas to make sure they are not covered by furniture or blocked in any other way.
• Check for noticeable air leaks in ducts around the unit. Seal any leaks with several wraps of duct tape.
• Look for the door or panel that covers the blower. This may be marked “filter”. Remove the door/panel.
• Check the air filters and clean the grill. The filter should be marked with a size (if disposable) or cleaning instructions (if permanent). Most newer metal filters can be rinsed with warm water to clean, but check the manufacturer’s recommendation or owner’s manual to be sure.
• If replacing a disposable filter, make sure to slide it in facing the proper direction.
• While the furnace is still open, vacuum out the area around the blower.

3. Steam Heating System

• Turn off power to the unit.
• Check the water level in the boiler. If the level is low, slowly add water.
• If the water level appears low shortly after re-filling, call a technician to check for potential leaks.

Emergency Generators
Home generators can be useful in the event of a power outage, but they do present safety hazards if operated incorrectly.

• Never plug a home generator into an existing electrical circuit.
• Check the power requirements for your furnace and core appliances before considering the use of an emergency generator.
• All lights and appliances should be connected directly to the generator.
• Generators should be operated outdoors well away from all windows, doors and air vents to prevent harmful gases from entering the home.
• Always follow all manufacturers’ instructions for installation and use.

Fireplaces
If you have a wood/pellet-burning fireplace or stove, keep a supply of fuel on hand sufficient enough to heat your home for at least two days. Make sure the flue is fully open prior to lighting any fire. When not in use, make sure the flue is closed tightly to shut out cold outside air. If you have not had the chimney cleaned within the past year, using the fireplace is not recommended. Creosote buildup in chimneys can develop into destructive chimney fires if not controlled by annual cleanings.

Staying Warm in an Unheated Home
As temperatures dip, conserving body heat becomes more and more critical. Here are some strategies for maintaining warmth in the event that you must wait for heat or power to be restored.

• Outfit yourself in heavy clothing, particularly bulky outerwear. If possible wear several layers on your hands and feet. Always wear a warm hat, as an uncovered head results in greater body heat loss.
• Select a “Warm Zone” for the house. Ideally, this would be a room that is away from prevailing winds, has good insulation, does not have many windows and is isolated from other unheated areas. Rooms with a fireplace or other sources of heat are also ideal candidates.
• Use towels or blankets to stop drafts from cooling the selected room.
• Utilize blankets, sleeping bags, large towels, rugs and other materials to create a pocket in the “Warm Zone” that can better trap body warmth. Huddling close together is a good way to pool body heat.
• Close all drapes and window coverings. If cold air can still be felt, consider covering windows with towels or extra blankets.
• Cover openings under doors with towels and/or blankets.

Safeguard Against Frozen Pipes
One of the most significant threats to your home in winter is the possibility of water frozen in the plumbing system. When water freezes it expands up to four percent, enough to cause pipes to crack. This can easily lead to flooding and rampant water damage when heat is restored.

To prevent ice inside your pipes:

• Open cabinet doors under sinks to allow warmer air to flow around pipes.
• Hang a towel on the wall behind the sink.
• Wrap pipes in insulation, or layers of old newspapers wrapped in plastic.
• Turn the faucet at the lowest point in the house on to a slow, constant drip. This is especially important as outside temperatures dip into the 20s and below.
• Close off any rooms that don’t contain pipes to minimize heat loss.
• Turn off the water to outdoor faucets and drain the pipes.
• If outside temperatures are below freezing and you find a faucet with little or no water pressure, you may have an ice clog.

If you suspect an ice block in a particular faucet:

• Turn on the faucet nearest to the pipe with the suspected ice block.
• Follow the pipe to the location where it meets an outside wall.
• Locate the section of pipe exposed to cold air.
• If you still have power, use an electric hair dryer to melt the ice. Move it back and forth roughly one foot above where you suspect the ice clog.
• Contact a professional plumber to inspect pipes and assist with any needed repair.

If the heat loss in your home forces you to temporarily evacuate, take the following precautions to prevent ice within pipes while you are away:

• Turn off the primary water main where it enters the house. Protect the valve, inlet pipe and mete or pump with blankets or insulation material.
• Drain the water from your plumbing system. Start at the top of the house and work your way down, opening all taps and flushing toilets as you move. To drain your hot water tank, attach a hose to the tank drain/outlet valve and run this to the nearest basement floor drain. –
  Note that with gas-fired water tanks, the pilot light should be extinguished prior to draining.
• Un-hook the hoses on your washing machine and drain.
• Add a small amount of anti-freeze to water left in the toilet bowl and to sink and bathtub drains.

Thanks to David Green with RE/MAX of The Wildwoods in Wildwood Crest, NJ, (609) 523-9494 ext.31, for sending this content through the EcoBroker network. I’m certainly not an expert in these areas and learned a lot from the info he provided.

I’ve found poor seals around doors and windows of older homes and new construction alike. If you have cold spots or drafts in your home, check out this chart.

Here are common sources of energy losses and air infiltration points in the home according to Comprehensive InfraRed Thermography Consultants.

Generic winterizing tips may be helpful for you if you’re knowledgeable about the construction of your home. But even a talented do-it-yourselfer can a use professional to identify where your energy dollars are leaking out of the house.

Contributed by Martha Amram 

Ah, Eichler homes — a truly California mix of indoor and outdoor living. But sometimes this comes at the price of dis-comfort. Many Eichler owners complain of being too hot in the summer as the sun bears down on their patio or atrium. And too cold in the winter as all that glass conducts the warm air out.

Typical home improvement suggestions to increase comfort are to add insulation in the walls and replace your single-pane windows with double-pane. Both will save energy, but lack an element of “fun” we crave. And the expense! Here are a few different ideas:

Close off the atrium or patio.

Some Eichlers wrap around their open courtyard. It’s a simple matter to add the final wall and some kind of roof covering. The roof area can be covered with an innovative skylight option. I’m a big fan of putting skylights over the atrium, because it makes the area useful during the rainy winter months, so we get more use out of the whole house. We installed a Rollamatic Roof. Our energy efficiency tests show that it doesn’t leak warm air at all. This means the glass windows facing the patio or atrium no longer conducts warm air to the outside, saving energy and money.

Oh, and the courtyard floor has now moved indoors. It can be heated with a simple add-on such as Warmfloor™. 

Add awnings for shade.

A recent study showed that shading windows on the south and west can substantially reduce air conditioning costs. While our air conditioning days are minimal, homeowners can increase comfort by shading windows and patio areas in the summer. East-facing patios, for example, can heat up in the morning and release that heat all day long, raising the house temperature in the afternoon when the sun is blazing down from the west.

Sale shades provide wonderful trapezoidal shapes for shade, a style that fits with the contemporary Eichler look. Sunset Magazine even recently featured an Eichler with a sail shade.

Add blinds to your single pane windows.

Cheaper than replacing all those famous Eichler windows with double-pane, blinds can help reduce heat gain in the summer and heat loss in the winter. Their effectiveness will depend on your lifestyle. Here are reasons that blinds may or may not work for you.

First, blinds reduce heat gain and heat loss when they are closed. But, as Eichler owners, we like our open indoor/outdoor feeling. So, blinds depend on the good habit of actually pulling them down. Will you really do it?

Second, blinds are an imperfect seal. They let hot air in, and cold air out. They will reduce heat transfer, but not as effectively as a double-paned window. Will you mind? If blinds are a solution for some of your windows, look for those that have R values (insulation factors) of 2 or more.

Match your choice of blind to your purpose. Some styles are optimized to save heat in the winter. Other styles are optimized to provide shade in the summer. There are even shading blinds that you can look through, keeping the best of both worlds — Eichler’s feel of outdoor living while cooling the house in the summer.

I love living in my Eichler, but I want to save energy too. Let’s keep looking for fun ways increase comfort.

Martha Amram is the CEO of GreenNow USA, a Palo Alto-based firm that helps homeowners save energy and water. During the home visit, GreenNow collects data and performs tests that help homeowners identify where their water and energy spending is going, how much is wasted, and the next steps to energy and water efficiency – from good habits to new appliances to home improvements.

Copyright © 2007. Reproduction of any portion of this blog post or the images is prohibited by the Digital Millennium Copyright Act. If this post is being viewed on any site other than www.ValueAndComfort.comthen the material has been stolen without permission. Violators will be reported.

Last Tuesday’s 5.6 earthquake prompts the usual post-game discussion: are you ready for the Big One?

The newspapers are full of “how ready are you” polls. But, really, have you protected your most important assets (your home and family) as much as you can? Some companies are rising to meet your needs.

National Building Inspectors has created a limited inspection specifically designed to determine if any damage has occurred as a result of this quake. The inspection period is November 2007.

For a longer term outlook, strongly consider safety valves for gas lines. Contra Costa County requires an approved seismic gas shut-off device (motion sensitive) or an approved excess flow gas shut-off (non-motion sensitive) to be installed after the gas meter plus excess flow gas shut-off devices at each gas appliance.

It’s not yet a requirement in other counties, but it’s certainly a good idea in earthquake country.

Thanks to Earthquake Plumbing for the illustration and background info.

Copyright © 2007. Reproduction of any portion of this blog post or the images is prohibited by the Digital Millennium Copyright Act. If this post is being viewed on any site other than www.ValueAndComfort.com then the material has been stolen without permission. Violators will be reported.

Is your kitchen clean and ready for all the work it’s going to do in the next couple of months? No? Rather than compromising your health with harsh chemicals, here are some safe, chemical-free ways to keep your appliances sparkling clean.

The Oven - You can rub the inside of your oven with wet steel wool to remove the tough stuff, and then sprinkle baking soda throughout the oven. Let it sit for a few minutes, then just wipe it all clean with a wet rag . . . really, it can be that simple!

The Microwave - Mix 1 cup of water with a few teaspoons of baking soda in a microwave safe bowl. Put the bowl in the microwave and run it for 2 minutes. Take out the bowl and wipe it clean with just a rag; every last spot will come out!

The Refrigerator - Baking soda is key! Why would you want to spray chemicals in the place that holds your food! Make a nice paste from baking soda and water (equal parts of both) and scrub away. Wipe down with a clean cloth and all will be sparkling!

The Dishwasher - Add 1/2 cup vinegar to an empty dishwasher and run the rinse cycle. This will open up any clogs in the dishwasher drain lines and deodorize the machine.

Sink Clogs - A mixture of equal parts vinegar, salt, and baking soda may help open up a slow-draining sink. Pour the solution down drain; let it sit for 1 hour, then pour boiling or very hot tap water down the drain.

With an endless supply of spills, drips, grease and foot traffic, cleaning the kitchen can feel like an endless task. Hopefully, these tips and tricks will help you in the upcoming months.

Thanks to Home Warrenty of America for these tips. I like their service, so I don’t mind saying that HWA offers a comprehensive repair and replacement plan cover to your systems and built-in appliances for one low annual fee. When we buy or sell a property in the Bay Area, this kind of coverage is a must.

Copyright © 2007. Reproduction of any portion of this blog post or the images is prohibited by the Digital Millennium Copyright Act. If this post is being viewed on any site other than www.ValueAndComfort.com then the material has been stolen without permission. Violators will be reported.

Concrete replaced by Rubber

Many cities throughout the country are moving toward greener practices and policies. With so many choices available, it’s getting easy to pick the products and practices to support. The companies have difficult part — the need to get their innovative products known to the marketplace. While talking to Menlo Park Green Ribbon Citizens Committee member Gail Slocum, she was intrigued by my mention of alternative sidewalks.

Recently named “Best of America” by the editors of Reader’s Digest magazine, and getting a spot on NBC Nightly News and numerous other media mentions, Rubbersidewalks is getting known.

I saw Rubbersidewalks installed near the San Jose Convention Center, then found that the company developed their line of red “bricks” specifically for Boston’s Freedom Trail.

I certainly applaud the creativity of turning landfill garbage into a useful product. Cities will breath a sigh of relief at the drop in slip-and-fall claims from buckling concrete. They’ll also like the long term cost savings compared to concrete. Arborists and urban forest supporters will appreciate the harmony between rubber sidewalk and trees. Me? I like that the rubber is easier on my feet.

For the home and garden, there are environmentally-friendly paving alternatives. These may be recycled stone, or products made from rubber or plastic. As I said, there are lots of choices available.

Copyright © 2007. Reproduction of any portion of this blog post or the images is prohibited by the Digital Millennium Copyright Act. If this post is being viewed on any site other than www.ValueAndComfort.com then the material has been stolen without permission*. Violators will be reported.

*except that I did post a copy on ActiveRain before being informed that it was not appropriate to copy even my own posts.

Abandoned properties may present more than just an eyesore in a neighborhood. They can be a breeding ground for mosquitoes and an attractive nuisance to transients and vandals.

Some reports relate an increase in West Nile Virus outbreaks to the sharp increase in forclosures. Realtors have been notified to report “green” swimming pools to local mosquito and vector control agencies. The green color comes from organic matter or bacterial growth. Any standing water can become a mosquito breeding ground.

Neighbors would do well to heed this advise, too. You know the neglected homes in your area. Since I’ve been hip to the West Nile Virus warning, I’ve noticed standing water even in the yards of inhabited homes — primarily renters and our elderly neighbors.

Standing water is defined as any water standing for seven or more days. Common sources are trash cans, bird baths, wading pools, toys, and rain gutters. Keep an eye out. You’ll be surprised where water will collect.

If you notice standing water, let the residents know about the mosquito issue. They’ll probably thank you. After all, they don’t want to be bitten either.